What Is Suiting Fabric? What to Look for When Choosing It

In the trade, the term "suiting" describes not which fibre a fabric is made from, but the purpose it will be used for. The expectation is that the fabric looks good in both the jacket and the trousers at the same time, can be controlled during cutting and sewing, takes shape under the iron and keeps that shape throughout wear.

These fabrics are mostly woven. Twill and plain weave, together with their derivatives, are commonly used constructions. Plain colours, pinstripes, herringbone, houndstooth, small checks and patterns with a subtle surface effect are frequently seen in suit collections. Classic business suits, modern-cut suits, ceremonial wear and jacket-and-trouser separates are typical uses for this group. You can browse different composition and texture options in the suiting fabrics section.

Fibre composition refers to the type and proportion of the fibres that make up the fabric and is usually stated as percentages. Two fabrics in the same colour and pattern can behave very differently in the hand, on the hanger and in wear if their compositions differ.

Which approach is right depends on how often the product will be worn, the target customer, care expectations and the price bracket. We look at the effect of fibre choice on product behaviour in more detail in the choosing fabric composition guide.

Fabric weight is the weight of the fabric per unit area and is usually given in g/m² (GSM). Bear in mind that for suiting fabrics some suppliers quote the weight per running metre (linear metre); when comparing two fabrics, make sure the unit and the fabric width are on the same basis.

As a general tendency, lighter fabrics offer a more fluid fall and cooler wear, but they are more sensitive to the choice of interlining and lining. Heavier fabrics give a fuller look and a more defined shape, and are more comfortable to wear in cold weather. Even so, two fabrics of the same weight can feel completely different depending on yarn fineness, weave density and finishing processes. There is therefore no universal "right weight". For the basics, see the GSM and fabric weight guide.

Hand (handle) is the feel of the fabric when touched: it is described with terms such as soft, firm, dry, slippery, full or cool. Fibre type, yarn twist, weave construction and the finishing treatments applied to the fabric determine the hand.

Drape describes how the fabric falls under its own weight and how it forms folds when released. Whether a jacket sits cleanly across the back and at the hem, and whether the trouser leg falls cleanly, is largely a matter of drape.

The two are linked but not the same thing: a fabric with a very soft hand may not carry the shape a suit requires. Three simple checks can be carried out on the sample:

1. Hold the fabric vertically and watch how it falls and folds.
2. Crumple a corner in your palm for a few seconds, release it and observe how it recovers.
3. Touch both the face and the back; in lined garments the feel of the back side also matters.

For summer suiting, lighter fabrics with a more open construction and a cool hand are generally preferred; breathability comes to the fore. In winter fabrics, fuller constructions, brushed surfaces and wool or wool-blend compositions are more common. The backbone of many collections, however, is formed by medium-weight fabrics that can also be worn between seasons.

Suitability for a season is not determined by the thickness of the fabric alone. Fully lined or half-lined make-up, the choice of interlining and the garment pattern also change how the garment feels in wear. We cover this subject separately in the choosing summer and winter fabrics guide.

Photographs and screens are not enough to evaluate a suiting fabric. When the sample arrives, the following steps are useful:

• Check the colour both in daylight and under shop or office lighting.
• If there is a pattern, consider how the stripe spacing and check size will look on the garment pattern.
• Do a pressing test on a small piece; check for glazing or crushing of the surface.
• If possible, have a sample garment made up; seam slippage and needle marks only show up in sewing.
• Record the sample code, the date and your evaluation notes.

Keep the approved sample as a reference. Small differences in shade and hand can occur between the lab or pre-production sample and the bulk production lot; agreeing the acceptable range at the outset makes the subsequent process easier.

Having the following information confirmed in writing when talking to the supplier makes both quote comparison and bulk production control easier:

• Quality name and sample code
• Fibre composition and fibre percentages
• Fabric weight and the unit used (g/m² or running metre)
• Usable fabric width
• Weave construction and, if any, pattern repeat
• Colour reference and colour card
• Finishing treatments applied
• Care recommendation
• Minimum order and quantity per colour
• Sample and bulk production lead times
• Tests or reports required under your company's quality procedure

If you are planning a collection-specific quality or contract manufacturing, sharing the product's end use, target season and your expectations from the outset speeds up the process. You can find information about our production approach on the production page. You can share your requirements with Arkadaş Tekstil, which has worked with suiting and blended fabrics since 1992, via the quote form.