What to Look for When Choosing Summer and Winter Fabrics

Fibre composition describes which fibres a fabric is made of and in what proportions. How a fibre manages moisture and heat directly affects how the fabric will feel on the body.

Wool is often thought of purely as a winter fibre. However, when it is woven from fine yarns in an open structure, it can also be a choice for summer suiting collections. Combined with thicker yarns, a tight weave and a napped, hairy surface, the same wool becomes a winter fabric.

Polyester and polyester-blend constructions can offer advantages in shape retention, easy care and cost balance. Because synthetic fibres behave differently from natural fibres in terms of moisture and air, how they feel in hot weather varies with the blend ratio, yarn structure and weave. For this reason, classifying a blended fabric as “summer” or “winter” purely on the basis of the percentages on the label can be misleading. For a closer look at how fibre choice affects product behaviour, see our guide to choosing fabric composition.

Fabric weight, or GSM, is the weight of a fabric in grams per square metre (g/m²). As a general trend, lighter fabrics are found in summer collections and heavier ones in winter collections. However, there is no fixed, universally accepted weight threshold separating summer from winter. Each company sets its own ranges according to its product group and target market.

Two fabrics of the same weight can give a completely different sense of warmth if their weave density and yarn structure differ. That is why fabric weight should always be read together with information on composition, construction and hand. We explain separately how to read fabric weight, and why it is not a quality indicator on its own, in our guide to fabric GSM and weight.

Weave structure defines how the warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) yarns interlace and how closely they are set. Simple structures such as plain weave give a flatter, drier surface, while diagonal structures such as twill can create a denser, fuller appearance.

Air permeability refers to how easily air can pass through a fabric. In a summer fabric, the aim is to allow body heat and moisture to escape. This is determined not by weight alone, but by yarn thickness, twist, weave density and surface finish. In a winter fabric, on the other hand, a tight structure and raised (napped) surfaces can increase the feeling of warmth by trapping air between the fibres.

Air permeability can be measured in a laboratory. Which method is used and what value is considered acceptable, however, depend on the company's quality procedures and the product type.

Hand is the character you feel when you touch a fabric. Summer fabrics are usually expected to have a dry, cool and light hand. For winter fabrics, a soft, full and warm hand feel is generally preferred.

Drape describes how a fabric falls when it hangs or is worn on the body. Lightweight summer fabrics can offer a fluid drape, but their tendency to crease and their ability to hold their shape must always be checked. Winter fabrics are expected to have more structure and body. This helps preserve the silhouette, particularly in products where shape matters, such as jackets and coats.

A fabric's seasonal performance cannot be considered separately from how the garment is made. A fully lined jacket feels warmer than a half-lined or unlined model made from the same fabric. The choice of interlining (a support material applied to the inner side of the fabric to give it shape) and whether the fit is loose or slim also affect wearing comfort.

The end-use scenario, in turn, is the starting point for the choice. The following questions help clarify the decision:

• In which climate zone and in which market will the product be sold?
• Will it be used mainly indoors in air-conditioned spaces, or outdoors?
• Is it intended for intensive everyday wear, or as a product worn on specific occasions?
• Is the product planned to cover the transitional seasons as well?

The table below gives a qualitative summary of the priorities that stand out in each season. These are general tendencies; every product should be assessed against its own end-use scenario.

Technical values are a starting point. The real decision is made on the sample. When evaluating a seasonal fabric sample, the following steps are useful:

• Hold the fabric up to the light to check the weave density and openness by eye.
• Crumple the fabric in your hand and release it to observe its tendency to crease and how it recovers.
• Have different team members assess the hand, and build a shared vocabulary.
• If possible, have a trial garment made from the sample and test it in conditions close to the intended use.
• Record the composition, fabric weight, width and sample code together with your observations.

To see seasonal options, you can browse our summer fabric and winter fabric groups. If you share your collection's season, target market and product type, we at Arkadaş Tekstil can evaluate suitable fabric alternatives together with you. You can send your request via the Request a Quote page.