How to Choose Fabric Composition

Composition is the breakdown of the fibres used in a fabric, usually expressed as percentages by weight. On the label, fibres are generally listed in descending order of proportion. Minor components such as elastane, added for stretch, are also part of the composition and should be stated.

It is useful to distinguish between three concepts here:

• Fibre: The raw material itself, such as wool or polyester.
• Yarn: The structure formed by twisting fibres together; its thickness and amount of twist affect the character of the fabric.
• Fabric construction: The way the yarns are woven or knitted, together with the finishing processes applied afterwards.

Composition only describes the first of these layers. Composition information is also carried over to the label of the finished garment. Since labelling rules can vary from market to market, you should obtain the composition in writing from the supplier and check the current labelling rules of the market where the product will be sold.

The inherent properties of fibres determine how a fabric will behave in use. The table below summarises general tendencies; yarn, weave and finishing can change them.

Wool

Thanks to its natural crimp, wool provides elasticity and bulk. Its tendency to recover from creases when hung, its rich hand and its warm feel are the main reasons it is favoured, particularly for classic menswear and autumn/winter products. Its ability to absorb moisture contributes to comfort in wear.

On the other hand, wool generally requires attentive care. Under the wrong washing conditions, felting and shrinkage can occur, so the care instructions given to the end user need to be determined carefully. In most cases, its raw material cost is also higher than that of synthetic fibres.

Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fibre. Its best-known properties are durability, shape retention, crease resistance and easy care; because it dries quickly, it is practical for products that are worn and washed frequently. It is also generally more economical in terms of cost.

There are also points to bear in mind. Because its moisture absorption is low, in some uses it may feel less breathable than wool or other natural-fibre fabrics. Static build-up and pilling are issues that need to be assessed in light of the construction and finishing. Owing to the strength of the fibre, any pills that form may not break away from the surface easily.

Blends

Blends are used to bring together the strengths of different fibres. In a wool/polyester blend, the aim is usually to retain the hand and appearance of wool while benefiting from polyester's advantages in shape retention, durability and cost.

In a blend, two questions are decisive:

• Which fibre is dominant? The dominant fibre largely determines the overall character of the fabric.
• How has the blend been made? The fibres may be blended within the same yarn, or different yarns may be used in the warp and weft. This choice can affect hand, appearance and dyeing behaviour.

Fibres such as cotton, linen and viscose are also common on the market; the behaviour of each should be evaluated separately.

The composition decision should start from the product, not from the label. The following questions are a good starting point:

• How often will the product be worn, and how often will it be cleaned?
• What care instructions will be given to the end user (delicate wash, dry cleaning, easy care)?
• Is the product expected to hold its shape for a long time, or to have a fluid drape?
• In which season and in what climate will the product be used?

In a suit, for example, shape retention, crease recovery and hand all matter at once; we cover this balance separately in our suiting fabric guide. Where seasonal expectations are concerned, composition needs to be assessed together with weight and weave structure; you can find this topic in our guide to choosing summer and winter fabrics.

The care promise and the composition must be consistent. If a product promises easy care, the sample stage is where you should test whether the chosen fabric actually delivers on that promise.

Composition is one of the most important drivers of fabric cost. However, a sound comparison cannot be made on the price per metre alone:

• Weight and width: When two fabrics of the same composition come in different weights and widths, the unit cost and cutting yield change. We explain how to read weight information in our guide to GSM and fabric weight.
• Total product cost: The fabric's behaviour during sewing and its pressing and packing requirements are also reflected in the cost.
• Service life and return risk: A choice that looks cheap can end up costing the brand more if it fails to meet expectations in use.

Adjusting the blend ratio is a common way of reaching a target price. In that case, the effect of the change in ratio on hand, appearance and care must always be checked with a new sample.

Even if a composition looks right on paper, the final step in the decision is physical evaluation. Every company may have its own quality procedures; the list below can be used as a general starting point:

• Have both sides of the fabric been examined in the hand and in daylight?
• Has the drape been assessed with the fabric on a hanger or on a mannequin?
• Has creasing and recovery behaviour been observed by squeezing the fabric in the palm and releasing it?
• Has a washing or ironing test been carried out according to the planned care instructions?
• Have colour and lustre been checked under different lighting conditions?
• Has the composition been obtained in writing from the supplier, together with the sample code?
• Where necessary, has laboratory testing been planned in line with the company's own procedures?

The composition of the approved sample should be treated as the reference for comparison during bulk production.

For a general overview of wool and polyester-blend fabrics, you can browse our wool and polyester fabric groups. To share your target composition, end use and target price range with Arkadaş Tekstil, you can use the Request a Quote page.